South American Adventure: Part 5 - Days 9 & 10

Day 9 – Sunday, February 5th – Aboard the Crown Princess – Puerto Madryn, Argentina

To help us get off the ship quicker this morning, we had breakfast delivered to the room at 7:30.
It was our standard in-room breakfast before an early in-port day: lots of coffee, croissants, orange juice, and breakfast sandwiches with egg, ham, and cheese. We met up with Mike and Chuck (who are just down the hall from us toward the back of the ship in cabin D725) and headed down to the mid-ship gangway. Traffic there was light and in moments we were outside in the bright, warm sunshine. We walked the 700 meters to the end of the pier and met with our tour guide for the day – Carina, who was driving a light tan Chevy Trailblazer.

We exchanged hellos and piled into her car (Steve in the very back as he has the shortest legs… but also the worst problem with motion sickness in automobiles) and headed off to Punta Tombo, one of the largest Magellan penguin rookeries in Argentina.

Puerto Madryn is situated on a natural deep water harbor on the coast of Argentina, about 15 hours driving distance south of Buenos Aires. The town and all the surrounding environs are on the edge of a fairly large desert area with only one source of water to draw from – the Chubut, a small river whose source is high in the Andes Mountains on the western side of the country. - AFK

During our two-hour drive to Punta Tombo, I was surprised by how much the landscape was reminiscent of the high desert of Nevada or Utah. Forty million years ago, all of this was under a vast sea. And if you squinted your eyes, you could imagine this as a sea bed, with undulating hills. At the town of Trelew (founded by the Welsh in 1856), the landscape flattened and the land was covered with mostly low-scrub bushes. Certainly not someplace one would found a town. However, the previously mentioned Chubut river enabled the settlers to start farms and now it’s the only green area in a sea of brown scrub. – SW

As we drove deeper into the desert and south I was reminded of the arid landscape between Phoenix and Yuma, Arizona in the USA. The ground was uniformly covered with low scrub and sagebrush that just went on for miles and miles; an empty, but beautiful place in its own way. We did spot a few small groups of guanacos: similar to llama or alpaca, but slightly smaller and with beautiful tan to light reddish brown short fur. Steve pointed out that their heads looked a lot like a giraffe’s. There was also a brief sighting of rheas: small wingless birds like ostriches about the size of a small turkey but thinner.

We arrived at the reserve after about ninety minutes of driving on the highway and then another twenty minutes or so driving down a gravel road; fairly well maintained, but still pretty bumpy. We were all quite happy to be out of the car and able to stretch our legs. The sun was high and very bright, but not yet hot. Perfect weather for our romp with the penguins!

Carina showed us where the restrooms were and then we went through the small visitor center that explained the variety of penguin populations, and their various locations around the world, their life cycle, and what we could expect to see here at Punta Tombo – the Magellanic variety.

We piled back into the car and drove a short distance to the parking lot for the reserve proper and got out. There were a few groups there ahead of us but we had beaten the large tour busses that were coming from the ship, which was fortunate. Carina showed us where to pay our entry fee (US $17) and we started walking the one and a half kilometer trail to the overlook at the sea.

Carina explained to us before we started our walk that during the peak of the season there would be as many as nine hundred thousand penguins scattered throughout the area in their small burrows (large enough for both parents and one, maybe two chicks). The further we got along the path, the higher the penguin population density appeared to get, until there were burrows only a few feet from each other scattered as far as the eye could see, nearly all the way to the beach in one directions and for hundreds of meters in the opposite direction as well.

As we walked, we could hear the cries of the young keening in their burrows waiting for their parent(s) to return with food. There were lone birds constantly crossing the path, paying very little attention to us, as long as we kept our distance. We had been admonished to stop and wait if a penguin wandered onto the footpath. This did happen many times and the birds would generally go their way in fairly short order. Several times we witnessed rude humans practically yelling at the birds and their respective guides would then chastise them and ask them to be respectful and quiet so as not to disturb them. I was sadly reminded of the wretched people in various places around the world who feel compelled to drag poor creatures like baby dolphins out of the sea to take “selfies” with them not caring that they’re killing them in doing so…

When we finally made it to the end of the trail you could see thousands of penguins gathered together on the beach, for about a hundred yards at least, milling about. Some would go dive into the water and look for food; others coming back out as the tide would allow. It took them several tries usually to get out of the sea. They would come in with a wave and try to stand quickly before the wave rushed back out. All of this was a glorious sight to see and we were blessed to be able to witness it. - AFK

Watching the penguins swim in the ocean was fun, as they are very fast, in contrast to their very slow walking on land. While there are predators on land (pumas, being one that was mentioned), at sea they can get gobbled up by sea lions or orcas. Being fast is necessary to escape becoming dinner.

At this point in the year, the chicks are about 75 days old. Many are molting their original soft, downy feathers for their adult coats. They also have a gland that lets them oil themselves to better swim in the sea. And except for the squawking chicks, the penguins are very quiet. We did see a couple either necking/fighting by banging their beaks against each other (we weren’t sure which it was). The males are larger than the females, and have a pouch in their bellies to keep the eggs warm. Like marsupials.

We got to enjoy about an hour-and-a-half of walking among the penguins before meeting up again with Carina. A much needed bio-break was followed by a grilled ham and cheese sandwich lunch accompanied by cold drinks. The jacket I wore at the beginning of the day was now just carried.

Our drive back was much quieter. I think Mike and Allan had cat naps, and Chuck and I were watching the scenery. Carina did take a side-trip through the town of Trelew so that we could see the greenery that stood out in that bleak valley. Obviously, most of it was near the Chubut River. The town itself had some charm, but its outskirts were bland industria. There’s even an airport, where the flight to Buenos Aires takes an hour and forty-five minutes.

As we came back into Puerto Madryn, we went past the large aluminum factory, ALEAR. Yes, it was that exciting of a town. Carina dropped us off at the pier around 4PM, and we said our goodbyes. She was quite a good guide: very easygoing and well-informed. It was a long walk down that long pier, and once back on the ship, we had some sustenance at the International Café (I just love those tuna sandwiches that are grilled like paninis!). And then a long nap.

Dinner this evening was back in the Michelangelo Dining Room with our waiter Alex and his assistant Allan. This time I ordered the right main course, and the meal was enjoyable. There seems to be some odd service issues on this cruise, such as assistant waiters spilling water or wine on the table. It’s possible that they picked up a new crew on this voyage, and therefore they haven’t got the rhythm down pat yet.

After a brief walk on the promenade, it was off to bed. - SW


Day 10 – Monday, February 6th – Aboard the Crown Princess – At Sea

Following yesterday’s flurry of activity, today was about relaxing. And we did plenty of it.

After breakfast in the dining room (Chuck didn’t join us), we went to a main theater for a presentation on the Falkland Islands (our port for tomorrow). The guest lecturer was a delightful Spanish-born Brit named Julio Delgado. He told us of the discovery of the islands by Magellan, and then the visit by Charles Darwin in the 19th century aboard the Beagle. The islands (technically, an archipelago) had gone back and forth between the Spanish, French, Argentines, and British for many years, but it officially became a territory of England in the mid 19th century. The main town of Stanley, where we anchor tomorrow, has about 3,600 permanent residents.

Julio’s talk had plenty of photos (including one warning of uncleared minefields from the 1982 Falklands War with Argentina) and amusing details about the small town (you can traverse the whole thing in 45 minutes). The big attraction is the various colonies of Rockhopper, Gentoo, and King penguins.

After the talk, we hung out in the cabin, reading and enjoying the mild seas and partial sunshine.

In the afternoon, Julio gave a talk on Ushuaia, Argentina, our stop on Thursday. Again, it was punctuated with many fun photos, and brought back memories of our visit there on the ill-fated 2010 South America trip.

We had lunch at the trough, which was chaotic. It seems everyone eats at once, and either there are no tables available, or it’s deserted. This is a challenge on almost every large ship’s buffet area. Celebrity does the food area much better, dividing the space with islands for different types of food. Princess is more like a high school cafeteria, albeit with a wider and better variety of food. We managed to find a table and enjoy our lunch.

And then it was nap time. I think Allan slept for about two, and I was deeply engrossed in my Neil Simon autobiography (talk about a bundle of neuroses!).

For dinner, we chose to go to one of the two specialty restaurants aboard this ship, the Crown Grill. It’s a dark-paneled chophouse style restaurant, with more personal service and a more upscale menu than the main dining room. Our waiter, Christian, was someone that Mike and Chuck knew from a previous cruise on Princess, and he gave us excellent service. It was a nice two-hour dinner, featuring bisques, lobster tails (not for me), and filet mignons (Chuck had a large bone-in steak). Dessert was a glorified lemon meringue pie for three of us, with Allan defaulting to a chocolate/peanut butter concoction.

After all this napping and dining, we were exhausted. So it was off to bed we went… - SW

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