South American Adventure: Part 2: Day 4: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Day 4 – Tuesday, January 31st –Buenos Aires
[Steve writing] Dear readers: after re-reading the posted blog from the prior three days, I was aghast at how bloodless and dry my writing was. I was trying to incorporate so many details that I lost the feeling. For that, dear reader, I apologize, and will try to do better starting today.
The whole crew slept in rather late (8:30AM!) and enjoyed a lazy, relaxed morning. While seated at breakfast, we heard a clap of thunder, and it started to rain. It was the kind of rain that is typical in warmer climates: strong and brief. Umbrellas would be the order of the day (and thanks to Mike and Chucks’ thoughtful Christmas gifts, we had a complementary set of matching ones with different colored duck beaks and coverings!).
The one benefit of the rain was that it lowered the temperature…a little. Instead of 93 degrees (which felt like 102), today was 88 (and felt like 95). Nevertheless, we enjoyed walking through the tree-lined streets and stopped often to take pictures of buildings. Some of the late 19th century examples are quite beautiful, and wouldn’t look out of place in Paris. But there were plenty of examples of bad infill. One corner in particular featured two glorious old buildings, with a mid-century mess across the street. The old buildings celebrated their respective corners. The mid-century building shunned it.
Another interesting building design note: modern high-rise apartment buildings incorporate a tri-partite design at ground-level. In the center there is the main lobby, to one side the resident/visitor entrance (usually steps and a ramp), and to the other side the garage entrance. But not just some ramp going down to a garage: rather, a door that is stylistically cohesive and aligns with the other two sections, and then opens outward to let the vehicle in, either down to the garage, or to the rear where there is protected outdoor parking. When it’s done well, it’s quite attractive. And there were some spectacular lobbies that we’ve seen: more like art galleries.
Almost every apartment building has a doorman, but sometimes it’s just a chair behind a small desk. Just like in New York, most of the doormen seem to know each other and hang around together outdoors. The ones stuck inside seem lonely, but I suppose that’s the life of a doorman. I hope the tips are good at holiday time!
We went back to the area near the Recoleta Cemetery where we had dinner last night, but this time to visit the Vasalissa chocolate store (again, we had visited here in 2010) at Avenida Callao 1940. The beautiful, small store (with one exquisite chandelier) had many varieties of Belgian chocolate and a very helpful gentleman to make our selections. Allan was in true “chocolate dragon” mode and bought a variety of chocolate bars as well as a beautiful heart-shaped box filled with individually-selected chocolates. Chuck also put together a heart-shaped box of chocolates. There will be no dearth of chocolates over the next few weeks! - Indeed! - AFK
Allan wanted to look at leather coats, and we ended up at Arandú, which clothes the polo set here. The variety and quality of goods offered was stunning, as were the prices. - No, sadly no new leather jacket for me :-( - AFK
There was another couple in the store, and Mike chatted them up. They were from Sweden, and Mike spoke to them in Danish. I suppose they met, linguistically, in the middle of the Øresund Bridge that connects the two countries.
The hive-mind decided that we should head to the San Telmo neighborhood, sort of the equivalent of New York’s Greenwich Village. The walk took us across the Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest boulevard in South America (we had to wait several times just to cross it). One fun fact: when the boulevard was created, the French refused to move (or rebuild) their embassy. Therefore, the road skirts past it at its northern end.
After a bio/liquid break at Starbucks, we went through lovely Plaza San Martin, actually a large park with leafy, mature trees. And then down famous Florida, a pedestrian shopping street (with far too many touristy shops for my taste). - This was where Mike's contact from their earlier tour had recommended we go to look for leather coats. Alas, I agreed with Steve and none of the shops felt quite right. - AFK
We did see the beautiful, but currently unoccupied, building that was once Harrods (of London fame). I always find it interesting to see remnants of the colonial era in cities like this. Things that were built for a different era, when the locals didn’t have dominion over their own land.
Eventually, we made it to San Telmo, and had a very late lunch at Desnevil (Defensa 855). The un-air-conditioned restaurant is a typical parrilla (grilled meat) restaurant. Attentive and friendly waiters, generous portions, and a large wine list. Similar to what we ate yesterday, but a fraction of the price. Allan and I shared a tenderloin, and French fries “Spanish Style” (scalloped), and Mike and Chuck had a skirt steak, chorizo, and a beet salad. They had so many leftovers that tomorrow’s breakfast will feature steak and eggs!
After lunch, we wandered through the neighborhood which was fairly quiet this time of day. There were some interesting shops open and a few galleries. But mostly quiet.
It was time to head back to the apartment, and we headed for the subway (Subte) at Catedral. The station is located at the far end of the Plaza de Mayo, which features the National Historic Museum at one end, and the Casa Rosada (literally: Pink House) at the other. Yes, that Casa Rosada where the Perons spoke from the balcony (“Look at my arms: they’re stuck in this position” ~ Gerard Alessandrini).
The subway ride back was brutal: hot and crowded (it was rush-hour, after all), and we were happy to come topside at the Pueyrredón station. I was so tired I could barely talk (that IS tired!) and once we got back to the cool apartment, we all enjoyed a long nap.
Since lunch was so filling (and so late), we decided to skip dinner and just graze on what’s in the apartment. Chuck and I ventured out into the warm evening to recycle the growing pile of plastic bottles, and pick up some additional groceries at the Disco market. Seriously: that’s the name of the chain. More fun than Safeway. And the male scenery was delectable. A lot more fun than Safeway!
Now off to bed, anticipating tomorrow’s transition day to the cruise portion of our vacation!
[Steve writing] Dear readers: after re-reading the posted blog from the prior three days, I was aghast at how bloodless and dry my writing was. I was trying to incorporate so many details that I lost the feeling. For that, dear reader, I apologize, and will try to do better starting today.
The whole crew slept in rather late (8:30AM!) and enjoyed a lazy, relaxed morning. While seated at breakfast, we heard a clap of thunder, and it started to rain. It was the kind of rain that is typical in warmer climates: strong and brief. Umbrellas would be the order of the day (and thanks to Mike and Chucks’ thoughtful Christmas gifts, we had a complementary set of matching ones with different colored duck beaks and coverings!).
The one benefit of the rain was that it lowered the temperature…a little. Instead of 93 degrees (which felt like 102), today was 88 (and felt like 95). Nevertheless, we enjoyed walking through the tree-lined streets and stopped often to take pictures of buildings. Some of the late 19th century examples are quite beautiful, and wouldn’t look out of place in Paris. But there were plenty of examples of bad infill. One corner in particular featured two glorious old buildings, with a mid-century mess across the street. The old buildings celebrated their respective corners. The mid-century building shunned it.
Another interesting building design note: modern high-rise apartment buildings incorporate a tri-partite design at ground-level. In the center there is the main lobby, to one side the resident/visitor entrance (usually steps and a ramp), and to the other side the garage entrance. But not just some ramp going down to a garage: rather, a door that is stylistically cohesive and aligns with the other two sections, and then opens outward to let the vehicle in, either down to the garage, or to the rear where there is protected outdoor parking. When it’s done well, it’s quite attractive. And there were some spectacular lobbies that we’ve seen: more like art galleries.
Almost every apartment building has a doorman, but sometimes it’s just a chair behind a small desk. Just like in New York, most of the doormen seem to know each other and hang around together outdoors. The ones stuck inside seem lonely, but I suppose that’s the life of a doorman. I hope the tips are good at holiday time!
We went back to the area near the Recoleta Cemetery where we had dinner last night, but this time to visit the Vasalissa chocolate store (again, we had visited here in 2010) at Avenida Callao 1940. The beautiful, small store (with one exquisite chandelier) had many varieties of Belgian chocolate and a very helpful gentleman to make our selections. Allan was in true “chocolate dragon” mode and bought a variety of chocolate bars as well as a beautiful heart-shaped box filled with individually-selected chocolates. Chuck also put together a heart-shaped box of chocolates. There will be no dearth of chocolates over the next few weeks! - Indeed! - AFK
Allan wanted to look at leather coats, and we ended up at Arandú, which clothes the polo set here. The variety and quality of goods offered was stunning, as were the prices. - No, sadly no new leather jacket for me :-( - AFK
There was another couple in the store, and Mike chatted them up. They were from Sweden, and Mike spoke to them in Danish. I suppose they met, linguistically, in the middle of the Øresund Bridge that connects the two countries.
The hive-mind decided that we should head to the San Telmo neighborhood, sort of the equivalent of New York’s Greenwich Village. The walk took us across the Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest boulevard in South America (we had to wait several times just to cross it). One fun fact: when the boulevard was created, the French refused to move (or rebuild) their embassy. Therefore, the road skirts past it at its northern end.
After a bio/liquid break at Starbucks, we went through lovely Plaza San Martin, actually a large park with leafy, mature trees. And then down famous Florida, a pedestrian shopping street (with far too many touristy shops for my taste). - This was where Mike's contact from their earlier tour had recommended we go to look for leather coats. Alas, I agreed with Steve and none of the shops felt quite right. - AFK
We did see the beautiful, but currently unoccupied, building that was once Harrods (of London fame). I always find it interesting to see remnants of the colonial era in cities like this. Things that were built for a different era, when the locals didn’t have dominion over their own land.
Eventually, we made it to San Telmo, and had a very late lunch at Desnevil (Defensa 855). The un-air-conditioned restaurant is a typical parrilla (grilled meat) restaurant. Attentive and friendly waiters, generous portions, and a large wine list. Similar to what we ate yesterday, but a fraction of the price. Allan and I shared a tenderloin, and French fries “Spanish Style” (scalloped), and Mike and Chuck had a skirt steak, chorizo, and a beet salad. They had so many leftovers that tomorrow’s breakfast will feature steak and eggs!
After lunch, we wandered through the neighborhood which was fairly quiet this time of day. There were some interesting shops open and a few galleries. But mostly quiet.
It was time to head back to the apartment, and we headed for the subway (Subte) at Catedral. The station is located at the far end of the Plaza de Mayo, which features the National Historic Museum at one end, and the Casa Rosada (literally: Pink House) at the other. Yes, that Casa Rosada where the Perons spoke from the balcony (“Look at my arms: they’re stuck in this position” ~ Gerard Alessandrini).
The subway ride back was brutal: hot and crowded (it was rush-hour, after all), and we were happy to come topside at the Pueyrredón station. I was so tired I could barely talk (that IS tired!) and once we got back to the cool apartment, we all enjoyed a long nap.
Since lunch was so filling (and so late), we decided to skip dinner and just graze on what’s in the apartment. Chuck and I ventured out into the warm evening to recycle the growing pile of plastic bottles, and pick up some additional groceries at the Disco market. Seriously: that’s the name of the chain. More fun than Safeway. And the male scenery was delectable. A lot more fun than Safeway!
Now off to bed, anticipating tomorrow’s transition day to the cruise portion of our vacation!
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